The sea breeze wafts through the car windows as you travel down the road toward the city, and you can’t help but feel as you take in the scenery that there will be the promise of something timeless.
Of course, the city does boast its share of modern attractions. Israel’s only 18-hole golf course lies on the outskirts of the city and park—surely one of the more picturesque courses in the world. Designed appropriately for the area, with plenty of beautiful landscaping and planted trees, it’s a tranquil oasis where cool winds blow in from the sea as you play.
Moving on, I was surprised by the appearance of a neighborhood full of post-modern private estates. It’s worth taking a detour into some of these secluded enclaves—completely unobtrusive and hidden by dunes, these neighborhoods are quite stunning. Many of the modern buildings and the golf course are there because of the Caesarea Edmond Benjamin De Rothschild Foundation. With the establishment of the state of Israel, the Rothschild family transferred vast parcels of land to the new state, and then set up a charitable foundation to help govern the area and contribute to education and culture across the country. Baron De Rothschild still maintains a residence here, as do many other wealthy families, politicians and celebrities.
Peruse this area freely and make sure to take note of the appropriately named streets—“Topaz,” “Diamond” and “The Precious Stones” are just a few of the many ritzy addresses. While pristine sand dunes are everywhere, there are also manicured lawns on the mini-rotaries accented with pink, lavender and white petunias. Obviously there is a well-thought-out juxtaposition of old and new taking place in this extraordinary city.
Upon arriving at the National Park, I was a bit baffl ed at first by the Crusader City (built in 1100 C.E.) along the shores of the sea. As I walked into the city, I realized that both to my left and my right there were ruins of all shapes and sizes. Not far from the entrance, you can fi nd plenty of little shops hosting local Israeli artists’ ceramics and drawings. With a fine bottle of Israeli red wine in hand, I promptly found my way to the old port and the sea.
The moss-covered rocks along the boardwalk rest against the seawall. From afar, I could stand silently and listen to the sound of the wind, and watch as a man skipped rocks across the water. Summers here must be magnificent, and to fully experience the ruins that lay underwater, you can also snorkel and dive.
We then went looking for another of the city’s great wonders: the acclaimed amphitheater built in 6 C.E. Unfortunately, the massive Orot Rabin coal-burning power station, which provides electricity to all of Israel, is located alongside Caesarea in the nearby city of Hadera. A rather controversial landmark, it’s hard to miss and has a way of marring the historic beauty of the area. Repeatedly, I felt my eyes and attention being drawn back to the towering smoke stacks in the distance.
Nevertheless, the crowds of people up ahead beckoned, indicating that the amphitheater was near. We climbed some steps to an open plateau, turned the corner and saw the well-preserved, Roman-style amphitheater—a breathtaking sight, but at the same time almost shocking to see here on the shores of the Mediterranean in Israel. We climbed the ancient steps and sat for a while with the sea before us. Looking down at the stage, I couldn’t help but close my eyes and imagine a Roman theatrical performance. Nowadays, the amphitheater is the host to many shows, concerts and festivals that take place in the summer, with Radiohead, Idan Raichel and others having played here.
Outside the National Park zone is the famous Caesarea beach. Stretching along this modest-sized beach and beyond is the ancient aqueduct that once conveyed water to the city from springs at the foot of Mt. Carmel nearly 10 kilometers away. Today, the beautiful Roman architecture stands as a backdrop for families soaking up sun on this unique and rather intimate beach. The parking lot is generally full of local artists selling their handmade crafts and wares. Even on a cooler day, you’re bound to fi nd a few kiosks selling crafts of all sorts.
A more suitable neighbor to Caesarea is the Kibbutz Sdot Yam, which is also definitely worth visiting. This communal settlement was established in 1940 and is famous for its incredible sculpture garden overlooking the sea, as well as its Caesar stones (a tile made of sand and polymer). It makes a great day trip from Tel Aviv if you combine a visit to Caesarea with a traditional Israeli kibbutz experience.
As I turned my back to the beach and faced the ancient aqueduct marked with endless Roman arches, I couldn’t help but place myself back in the time of the Crusades. This ancient city was conquered over and over, time and time again. The apparent feel of ancient Rome is still here, but this historical place also echoes with memories of the many people and cultures that have come and gone since then.
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